Supply-line failure on an upper floor
This sends water down through the floor structure, wetting a ceiling and often the wall below. Plaster ceilings can sag with trapped water and may need to be opened carefully so the water can drain.
Water removal and drying after a supply line bursts, with the pipe repair left to a licensed plumber.
Fastest: call (833) 490-5225. Or send this and we call you back.
A burst pipe can release gallons a minute, so close the main shut-off valve first, then call a licensed plumber for the pipe and Jenkintown Water Damage Restoration for the water. The crew extracts the water, opens wet walls where needed and dries the structure. The line is staffed around the clock, and the next available crew is sent out.
Find the main valve now, before you do anything else. In an older house it is usually on the supply line close to where the water enters the cellar, and it may be a round wheel handle that needs several full turns clockwise. If you cannot find it or it will not move, the street-side curb stop belongs to the water utility, and calling them is the right next move.
Once the flow is stopped, the damage is in where the water went. A split in a second-floor line may soak a plaster ceiling below, run down inside a wall cavity and show up as a dark stain in the cellar. The pipe itself may be a galvanized line, an early copper line or newer plastic; older lines can fail at joints, at threads or where they have corroded from the inside, and a plumber will tell you which you have.
The crew's job starts where the plumber's ends. It finds every wet surface, removes the water, takes out what cannot be dried and runs equipment until the structure reads dry. Repair of the pipe itself is licensed plumbing work, and booking the plumber early keeps drying from being held up.
Close the main shut-off valve, open the lowest tap to drain the line, and switch off power to the wet area only if the panel is dry and easy to reach. Then call a plumber for the pipe and (833) 490-5225 for the water. Take photos before moving anything.
Know where the valve is before you need it. Walk to the cellar where the line comes in and look for a handle or lever on the pipe; in many older houses there is also a meter and a shut-off valve nearby. If the valve is seized, do not force it with a wrench until it breaks; call the plumber and the utility.
Move quickly but keep your feet dry. Water running down a wall can reach a ceiling light, outlets or a cellar panel, and tap water that has run over an electrical hazard is as dangerous as any other.
The late-January 2026 Arctic blast kept Philadelphia below freezing for nearly a week, and the Philadelphia Water Department answered 147 water main breaks that month. Those were street mains, not house lines, but the same cold stresses pipes inside exterior walls, unheated vestibules and vacant houses.
A main break is the utility's job; a burst line inside the house is yours. The two can happen together, and low pressure or a flooded street is a clue that the break is outside.
If water arrives in your cellar from the street side rather than from a pipe in the house, call the water utility. The crew can still help clean up what has already come in.
If water is dripping through a ceiling light or near an outlet, stay away from that area and cut power at the panel only if you can reach it dry. Do not poke at a bulging plaster ceiling, which can drop a section along with the water behind it.
The main valve is closed, taps are opened to drain the line and the electrical risk is checked. The plumber is called at the same time, because drying cannot finish while a line is still leaking.
Burst lines rarely stay where they split. The crew uses meters and a thermal camera to follow the water through ceiling plaster, wall cavities, subfloor and the room below, and records the readings.
Standing water is pulled out of floors and carpet. Wet insulation, a sagging ceiling section or plaster that has crumbled may be cut out, with your approval, so the framing behind it can breathe.
Air movers push air across floors, and small openings or drying ports let warm air into closed wall and ceiling cavities. Dehumidifiers pull the moisture out of the air, and readings are repeated until the numbers match a dry reference.
You receive moisture readings, photographs and a list of removed materials. Plaster, ceiling, paint and flooring repairs are quoted separately after drying, once everyone knows how much was removed.
This sends water down through the floor structure, wetting a ceiling and often the wall below. Plaster ceilings can sag with trapped water and may need to be opened carefully so the water can drain.
A line failing in a cellar floods quickly but is easy to find. A burst in a wall can run unseen for days. The thermal camera and meter work matters most here.
When ice splits a line, it often leaks only after the thaw, so the pipe can look fine until the weather warms. The frozen pipe page covers how that unfolds.
Burst pipe jobs vary mainly by how many floors the water crossed and what the walls are made of. A leak that wets a single plaster ceiling is a different job than one that runs into a finished cellar.
| Job | Typical range | What it includes |
|---|---|---|
| Category 1 mitigation, one room or small area | $1,200–$4,000 | Typical line failure caught within hours |
| Ceiling water damage repair, one section including paint | $500–$1,800 | Quoted after drying |
| Water heater or appliance leak cleanup, one area | $800–$3,000 | Plumber's repair not included |
| Structural drying, one room, three to five days | $800–$2,500 | Longer for plaster and masonry |
| Drywall replacement, per sq ft | $3–$7 | Hang, tape and paint; plaster patching is priced separately |
These are the business's own working estimates for Montgomery County in 2026 and are meant to size the job, not to quote it. The crew gives the real price on site before work begins, and the plumber's bill is separate.
Call any hour and explain what is going on. You get a clear price before any work starts.
In and around Jenkintown, most burst pipe calls start with a plaster ceiling that has gone brown or a cellar that has taken water from above. The borough's mix of older twins and rowhouses puts upper-floor bathrooms and laundries directly over plaster ceilings, so a single failed line can hit two floors.
A winter freeze is the likeliest cause of a burst in this climate, with the January average low in the Philadelphia area at about 25.6 degrees. Lines in exterior stone or brick walls and in cold vestibules are the first to go.
The crew works on the water. A licensed plumber repairs the line, and you can ask the plumber to leave the damaged section of pipe if your insurer wants to see it.
Cleanup and drying after a frozen pipe thaws and leaks, with pipe repair left to a licensed plumber.
How a wet house gets from first call to dry, repaired rooms, and which page to read for your kind of water.
Monitored drying of plaster-and-lath walls, hardwood over joists and stone or brick, with daily readings until dry.
Pumping and extracting standing water from cellars, floors and carpet so drying can start before mold does.
Not sure if you're covered? Check your ZIP code.
Pipes freeze first where cold reaches them: unheated cellars, crawl spaces under additions, exterior stone or brick walls and vacant houses.
Sudden and accidental water damage such as a burst pipe is often covered, while long-term leaks usually are not. Your insurer decides under your policy. Photos, moisture readings and a list of removed materials from the crew can go with your claim.
A licensed plumber fixes the pipe. The crew handles the water, the drying and cleanup, and tells you what the plumber needs to see. Booking the plumber early keeps the drying from being delayed.
A pipe can leak inside a closed wall or under a floor for hours or days before a stain appears. Moisture meters and a thermal camera show where the water has spread, so the crew can open only what needs to be opened.
Drying a room usually takes about three to five days, longer for plaster, masonry and hardwood. The crew rechecks readings daily and removes equipment only when the structure matches a dry reference.
Yes, in most cases. Warm air helps drying, and a cold house risks other pipes freezing. Leave the heat on unless the furnace itself is wet or the crew tells you otherwise.
Water in a twin or rowhouse can cross a shared wall. Call the crew, tell your neighbor, and take photos. Whose insurance applies depends on the policies, which is for the insurers to settle.